Surf Science

Author: Tony Butt
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720899
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 140

Book Description
Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don’t, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don’t need a scientific background to read it – just curiosity and a fascination for waves.

Dr. Rip's Essential Beach Book

Author: Rob Brander
Publisher: Columbia University Press
ISBN: 0231217412
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 267

Book Description
How do waves break, and what makes good surf? What are dangerous rip currents, and how do you spot one? What should you do if you get caught in one? Australia’s best-known surf scientist, Rob “Dr. Rip” Brander, takes readers on a fascinating and entertaining journey to uncover how beaches form and behave, the science of waves and currents, and how beaches respond to storms and climate change. He explains where the sand we lay our towels on came from, how the tides that wash up new treasures each day work, why no two beaches are exactly the same, and why some of them are disappearing. He also explores some of the hazards to watch out for, from rip currents to tsunamis to the (unlikely) event you find yourself swimming with a shark. Whether you’re a surfer looking for the perfect wave or you just enjoy hitting the beach with friends and family, this book is a must-read for all ocean lovers.

The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates

Author: Tony Butt
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720585
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 182

Book Description
Surfing.

The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean

Author: Kim Dwinell
Publisher: Top Shelf Productions
ISBN: 1684069963
Category : Juvenile Fiction
Languages : en
Pages : 116

Book Description
The ocean is packed with plants, animals, water… and science! Ride the waves of knowledge with Sam and Jade as they explain all about the amazing wonders of the sea, and have a blast doing it. Have you ever wondered why the ocean has waves? Why the tide goes in and out? And how can coral be alive when it looks like a rock? From the pages of the beloved graphic novel series, join the Surfside Girls, Sam and Jade, for a great investigation into everything that makes the ocean so cool: from moon cycles and king tides, to why a wave breaks, to otters in kelp forests… with plenty of fun and jokes along the way. Plus, there’s a whole step-by-step chapter on how to surf! The Science of Surfing is the coolest way to take a beach vacation and learn at the same time.

West of Jesus

Author: Steven Kotler
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN: 1596918357
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 270

Book Description
After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing? What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history? With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three-year globetrotting quest. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself.

Surf Survival

Author: Andrew Nathanson
Publisher: Simon and Schuster
ISBN: 1510749047
Category : Reference
Languages : en
Pages : 288

Book Description
Three expert physicians/surfers trained in emergency medicine, sports medicine, and family medicine explain everything you need to know to stay safe in the water. Whether you’re a novice or an expert, an SUPer or a bodyboarder, Surf Survival is the only book that every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. This practical handbook explains everything from how to reduce a shoulder dislocation to understanding waves and currents, from how to treat jellyfish stings to how to apply a tourniquet. Whether you are surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia, be prepared to handle surfing-related emergencies from hypothermia and drowning to wound care and infections. Topics include: • Fitness for surfers • Prevention and rehabilitation of common overuse injuries • Wilderness first aid • Surviving the sun • Surf-travel medicine • Surviving big surf • SUP • Surfer's ear • And much, much more! Written by three expert physician surfers, packed with color photos and illustrations, this is the authoritative medical guide for surfers and watermen.

Surfing

Author: Don Nardo
Publisher: Greenhaven Publishing LLC
ISBN: 1420512641
Category : Young Adult Nonfiction
Languages : en
Pages : 106

Book Description
Author Don Nardo examines the many aspects of science underlying the popular sport of surfing. This book discusses the physics of waves, the science behind board shape and how riders stay on the board, covering the principles of gravity, buoyancy, and water surface tension. It also covers the scientific principles behind movements such as popping-up on the board; catching a wave; riding a wave; turning; the "hang-ten"; the "duck dive"; the "turtle roll"; and others. Other connections to science are made through discussion of wiping out, rip currents, collisions and typical injuries, hypothermia, and shark attacks. This volume discusses psychological aspects, especially anxiety.

Growth and Properties of Ultrathin Epitaxial Layers

Author:
Publisher: Elsevier
ISBN: 0080532675
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 673

Book Description
Although there has been steady progress in understanding aspects of epitaxial growth throughout the last 30 years of modern surface science, work in this area has intensified greatly in the last 5 years. A number of factors have contributed to this expansion. One has been the general trend in surface science to tackle problems of increasing complexity as confidence is gained in the methodology, so for example, the role of oxide/metal interfaces in determining the properties of many practical supported catalysts is now being explored in greater detail. A second factor is the recognition of the potential importance of artificial multilayer materials not only in semiconductor devices but also in metal/metal systems because of their novel magnetic properties. Perhaps even more important than either of these application areas, however, is the newly-discovered power of scanning probe microscopies, and most notably scanning tunneling microscopy (STM), to provide the means to study epitaxial growth phenomena on an atomic scale under a wide range of conditions. These techniques have also contributed to revitalised interest in methods of fabricating and exploiting artificial structures (lateral as well as in layers) on a nanometre scale.This volume, on Growth and Properties of Ultrathin Epitaxial Layers, includes a collection of articles which reflects the present state of activity in this field. The emphasis is on metals and oxides rather than semiconductors.

Fundamental Processes of Atomic Dynamics

Author: J.S.S. Briggs
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 1468455443
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 688

Book Description
This volume contains the lectures presented at the NATO Advanced study Institute "Fundamental Processes of Atomic Dynamics" held in Maratea. Italy from September 20th to October 2nd 1987. The institute and this volume were conceived as a natural complement to previous institutes held in Maratea (1982) and in Santa Flavia (1984. ) whose proceedings are to be found in NATO ASI Series B vol. 103 and 134 respectively. The subject matter of these institutes was the study of the funda mental processes occurring in the interactions of atoms with photons. electrons and heavy-ions. The aim has been to unify these processes in a coherent experimen tal and theoretical approach. The present volume brings this approach up to date and contains in addition. for contrast and variety. a description of similar dynamical processes in the study of clusters and surfaces. The institute was opened with a lecture by Joe Macek in which he summarised the current status of atomic collision research. propounded the philosophy of a unified approach to structure, fragmentation and collision and posed the outstanding questions in the field. This lecture forms the introduction to this volume. The subject matter was divided into experiment and theory with the lectures inter-linked so that the one could re-inforce the other. The whole of the theoretical part of the institute was organised by Ugo Fano as an on-going symposium.

Advances in Atomic, Molecular, and Optical Physics

Author:
Publisher: Elsevier
ISBN: 0080561535
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 570

Book Description
This series, established in 1965, is concerned with recent developments in the general area of atomic, molecular, and optical physics. The field is in a state of rapid growth, as new experimental and theoretical techniques are used on many old and new problems. Topics covered also include related applied areas, such as atmospheric science, astrophysics, surface physics, and laser physics.