Surf Science

Surf Science PDF Author: Tony Butt
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720899
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 140

Book Description
Have you ever wondered where surf­ing waves come from, what makes every wave dif­fer­ent, why some peel per­fectly and oth­ers just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don’t, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surf­ing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edi­tion, Surf Sci­ence is the first book to talk in depth about the sci­ence of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surf­ing books and waves text­books, and will help you learn how to pre­dict surf. Surf Sci­ence is also a use­ful intro­duc­tion to ocean­o­graphy and the sci­ence of waves. You don’t need a sci­entific back­ground to read it – just curi­os­ity and a fas­cin­a­tion for waves.

West of Jesus

West of Jesus PDF Author: Steven Kotler
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN: 1596918357
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 270

Book Description
After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing? What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history? With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three-year globetrotting quest. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself.

The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean

The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean PDF Author: Kim Dwinell
Publisher: Top Shelf Productions
ISBN: 1684069963
Category : Juvenile Fiction
Languages : en
Pages : 116

Book Description
The ocean is packed with plants, animals, water… and science! Ride the waves of knowledge with Sam and Jade as they explain all about the amazing wonders of the sea, and have a blast doing it. Have you ever wondered why the ocean has waves? Why the tide goes in and out? And how can coral be alive when it looks like a rock? From the pages of the beloved graphic novel series, join the Surfside Girls, Sam and Jade, for a great investigation into everything that makes the ocean so cool: from moon cycles and king tides, to why a wave breaks, to otters in kelp forests… with plenty of fun and jokes along the way. Plus, there’s a whole step-by-step chapter on how to surf! The Science of Surfing is the coolest way to take a beach vacation and learn at the same time.

Surf Survival

Surf Survival PDF Author: Andrew Nathanson
Publisher: Simon and Schuster
ISBN: 1510749047
Category : Self-Help
Languages : en
Pages : 599

Book Description
Three expert physicians/surfers trained in emergency medicine, sports medicine, and family medicine explain everything you need to know to stay safe in the water. Whether you’re a novice or an expert, an SUPer or a bodyboarder, Surf Survival is the only book that every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. This practical handbook explains everything from how to reduce a shoulder dislocation to understanding waves and currents, from how to treat jellyfish stings to how to apply a tourniquet. Whether you are surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia, be prepared to handle surfing-related emergencies from hypothermia and drowning to wound care and infections. Topics include: • Fitness for surfers • Prevention and rehabilitation of common overuse injuries • Wilderness first aid • Surviving the sun • Surf-travel medicine • Surviving big surf • SUP • Surfer's ear • And much, much more! Written by three expert physician surfers, packed with color photos and illustrations, this is the authoritative medical guide for surfers and watermen.

Dr. Rip's Essential Beach Book

Dr. Rip's Essential Beach Book PDF Author: Rob Brander
Publisher: Columbia University Press
ISBN: 0231217412
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 267

Book Description
How do waves break, and what makes good surf? What are dangerous rip currents, and how do you spot one? What should you do if you get caught in one? Australia’s best-known surf scientist, Rob “Dr. Rip” Brander, takes readers on a fascinating and entertaining journey to uncover how beaches form and behave, the science of waves and currents, and how beaches respond to storms and climate change. He explains where the sand we lay our towels on came from, how the tides that wash up new treasures each day work, why no two beaches are exactly the same, and why some of them are disappearing. He also explores some of the hazards to watch out for, from rip currents to tsunamis to the (unlikely) event you find yourself swimming with a shark. Whether you’re a surfer looking for the perfect wave or you just enjoy hitting the beach with friends and family, this book is a must-read for all ocean lovers.

Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days PDF Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Penguin
ISBN: 0143109391
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 466

Book Description
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Auger- and X-Ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy in Materials Science

Auger- and X-Ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy in Materials Science PDF Author: Siegfried Hofmann
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 3642273815
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 545

Book Description
To anyone who is interested in surface chemical analysis of materials on the nanometer scale, this book is prepared to give appropriate information. Based on typical application examples in materials science, a concise approach to all aspects of quantitative analysis of surfaces and thin films with AES and XPS is provided. Starting from basic principles which are step by step developed into practically useful equations, extensive guidance is given to graduate students as well as to experienced researchers. Key chapters are those on quantitative surface analysis and on quantitative depth profiling, including recent developments in topics such as surface excitation parameter and backscattering correction factor. Basic relations are derived for emission and excitation angle dependencies in the analysis of bulk material and of fractional nano-layer structures, and for both smooth and rough surfaces. It is shown how to optimize the analytical strategy, signal-to-noise ratio, certainty and detection limit. Worked examples for quantification of alloys and of layer structures in practical cases (e.g. contamination, evaporation, segregation and oxidation) are used to critically review different approaches to quantification with respect to average matrix correction factors and matrix relative sensitivity factors. State-of-the-art issues in quantitative, destructive and non-destructive depth profiling are discussed with emphasis on sputter depth profiling and on angle resolved XPS and AES. Taking into account preferential sputtering and electron backscattering corrections, an introduction to the mixing-roughness-information depth (MRI) model and its extensions is presented.

Surf, Sand, and Stone

Surf, Sand, and Stone PDF Author: Keith Heyer Meldahl
Publisher: Univ of California Press
ISBN: 0520280040
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 236

Book Description
"Meldahl tells the scientific story of the Southern California coast by blending research from geology and oceanography with a compelling narrative and clear illustrations that take readers out in the field with the author to learn about the processes that have generated the coast as it exists today and how the region will change in the future. The author's geographic scope spans from San Diego to Point Conception, taking in coastal portions of San Diego, Orange, Ventura, Los Angeles, and Santa Barbara counties"--Provided by publisher.

The WetSand WaveCast Guide to Surf Forecasting

The WetSand WaveCast Guide to Surf Forecasting PDF Author: Nathan Todd Cool
Publisher: iUniverse
ISBN: 059530365X
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 166

Book Description
Shows how you can make surf forecasts with simple calculations and free, publicly available data.
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