Surf Science

Surf Science PDF Author: Tony Butt
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720899
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 140

Book Description
Have you ever wondered where surf­ing waves come from, what makes every wave dif­fer­ent, why some peel per­fectly and oth­ers just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don’t, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surf­ing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edi­tion, Surf Sci­ence is the first book to talk in depth about the sci­ence of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surf­ing books and waves text­books, and will help you learn how to pre­dict surf. Surf Sci­ence is also a use­ful intro­duc­tion to ocean­o­graphy and the sci­ence of waves. You don’t need a sci­entific back­ground to read it – just curi­os­ity and a fas­cin­a­tion for waves.

West of Jesus

West of Jesus PDF Author: Steven Kotler
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN: 1596918357
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 270

Book Description
After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing? What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history? With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three-year globetrotting quest. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself.

The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean

The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean PDF Author: Kim Dwinell
Publisher: Top Shelf Productions
ISBN: 1684069963
Category : Juvenile Fiction
Languages : en
Pages : 116

Book Description
The ocean is packed with plants, animals, water… and science! Ride the waves of knowledge with Sam and Jade as they explain all about the amazing wonders of the sea, and have a blast doing it. Have you ever wondered why the ocean has waves? Why the tide goes in and out? And how can coral be alive when it looks like a rock? From the pages of the beloved graphic novel series, join the Surfside Girls, Sam and Jade, for a great investigation into everything that makes the ocean so cool: from moon cycles and king tides, to why a wave breaks, to otters in kelp forests… with plenty of fun and jokes along the way. Plus, there’s a whole step-by-step chapter on how to surf! The Science of Surfing is the coolest way to take a beach vacation and learn at the same time.

Dr. Rip's Essential Beach Book

Dr. Rip's Essential Beach Book PDF Author: Rob Brander
Publisher: Columbia University Press
ISBN: 0231217412
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 267

Book Description
How do waves break, and what makes good surf? What are dangerous rip currents, and how do you spot one? What should you do if you get caught in one? Australia’s best-known surf scientist, Rob “Dr. Rip” Brander, takes readers on a fascinating and entertaining journey to uncover how beaches form and behave, the science of waves and currents, and how beaches respond to storms and climate change. He explains where the sand we lay our towels on came from, how the tides that wash up new treasures each day work, why no two beaches are exactly the same, and why some of them are disappearing. He also explores some of the hazards to watch out for, from rip currents to tsunamis to the (unlikely) event you find yourself swimming with a shark. Whether you’re a surfer looking for the perfect wave or you just enjoy hitting the beach with friends and family, this book is a must-read for all ocean lovers.

Surf Survival

Surf Survival PDF Author: Andrew Nathanson
Publisher: Simon and Schuster
ISBN: 1510749047
Category : Self-Help
Languages : en
Pages : 599

Book Description
Three expert physicians/surfers trained in emergency medicine, sports medicine, and family medicine explain everything you need to know to stay safe in the water. Whether you’re a novice or an expert, an SUPer or a bodyboarder, Surf Survival is the only book that every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. This practical handbook explains everything from how to reduce a shoulder dislocation to understanding waves and currents, from how to treat jellyfish stings to how to apply a tourniquet. Whether you are surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia, be prepared to handle surfing-related emergencies from hypothermia and drowning to wound care and infections. Topics include: • Fitness for surfers • Prevention and rehabilitation of common overuse injuries • Wilderness first aid • Surviving the sun • Surf-travel medicine • Surviving big surf • SUP • Surfer's ear • And much, much more! Written by three expert physician surfers, packed with color photos and illustrations, this is the authoritative medical guide for surfers and watermen.

Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days PDF Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Penguin
ISBN: 0143109391
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 466

Book Description
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Coal Science

Coal Science PDF Author: Martin L. Gorbaty
Publisher: Academic Press
ISBN: 1483268209
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 365

Book Description
Coal Science, Volume 3 presents and evaluates selected fundamental scientific areas on coal structure, reactivity, and utilization. This book describes the organic geochemistry of coal, role of oxygen functionality in coal and coal liquids reactivity, chemistry of hydrocarbon syntheses from carbon monoxide and hydrogen, and chemistry of coal in carbon monoxide/water systems. Other topics discussed include intermediates and mechanisms of the FTS of hydrocarbons; synthesis of oxygenates; and structural features of vitrinite macerals. The molecular weight determination for coal derivatives; thermal reactions of oxygen compounds; and alternative methods for removing oxygen compounds from coal-derived liquids are also elaborated. This publication likewise covers the aqueous coal conversions and conversion mechanism. This volume serves as a valuable source of information and guide to scientists and researchers interested in the coal literature.

The Wave

The Wave PDF Author: Susan Casey
Publisher: Anchor Canada
ISBN: 0385666683
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 434

Book Description
A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.

Carbon Dioxide Chemistry

Carbon Dioxide Chemistry PDF Author: J P Pradier
Publisher: Elsevier
ISBN: 1782424938
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 418

Book Description
This book derives from a workshop held in Sweden to examine the environmental implications of the dramatic increase in carbon dioxide levels in the atmosphere in the last 50 years and to find ways of mitigating greenhouse gas emissions. This multi-disciplinary approach makes it essential reading not only for chemists but for all engineers, biologists and environmentalists concerned with this crucially important issue.
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