Author: Sam BleakleyPublisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720806
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 196
Book Description
Professional longboarder Sam Bleakley details a decade of extreme global surf travel.
Cocaine + Surfing
Author: Chas SmithPublisher: Rare Bird Books
ISBN: 9781644280331
Category : Social Science
Languages : en
Pages : 188
Book Description
From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.
Surfing Uncertainty
Author: Andy ClarkPublisher: Oxford University Press, USA
ISBN: 0190217014
Category : Medical
Languages : en
Pages : 425
Book Description
Exciting new theories in neuroscience, psychology, and artificial intelligence are revealing minds like ours as predictive minds, forever trying to guess the incoming streams of sensory stimulation before they arrive. In this up-to-the-minute treatment, philosopher and cognitive scientist Andy Clark explores new ways of thinking about perception, action, and the embodied mind.
Mindfulness and Surfing
Author: Sam BleakleyPublisher: Leaping Hare Press
ISBN: 9781782403296
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 0
Book Description
Mindfulness and Surfing casts a fresh perspective on this popular sport, and explores how riding the waves can be the ultimate meditation. Engaging author Sam Bleakley takes us on a soulful journey across the tideline of his personal and philosophical travels. Through lunar cycles and river surfing to the Taoism of nature, he reveals an acute awareness of what the oceans can tell us about our place in the natural world. Meditating on one of natureâ??s greatest elements â?? its salty swells, flow and peaks â?? he shares life lessons in mindfulness that will be relished by surfer and non-surfer alike.
The Longboard Travel Guide
Author: Sam BleakleyPublisher: Orca Publications
ISBN: 9780956789341
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 0
Book Description
The Longboard Travel Guide is the first surf guidebook written specifically for longboarders. Loaded with mouth-watering lineup photos, the book describes 100 of the best waves in the world for loggers and offers insider tips on how to ride them. From the Maldives to Australia's Gold Coast, from Costa Rica to Fiji, from Samoa to Sri Lanka, all the classic destinations are here. A smorgasbord of less-well known areas are also included for adventurous surfers who thirst for uncrowded waves. This book covers every aspect of surf travel for longboarders: where to go, where to stay, what gear to take, how to get in shape for your trip and how to stay healthy abroad. Longboarders of all ages and abilities will benefit from the practical advice offered by a writing team of seasoned travelers and pros. Whether you're thinking of doing a road trip in Australia, a coldwater exploration trip in Iceland, or a boat trip in Indonesia this books has plenty to soak on up. A selection of real-life traveller's tales illustrate the pleasure and pain experienced by loggers searching for the elusive perfect wave, and the joys and frustrations of life of on the road. The Longboard Travel Guide features more than 200 color photos by some of the best photographers in the business including Chris Burkard, Alan van Gysen, Simon Williams, Tim McKenna and John Callahan.This book also includes a comprehensive directory of travel resources where readers can find information about the best surf camps, travel agencies and operators around the world. Packed with sublime photos, up-to-date info and real-life traveller's tales, The Longboard Travel Guide is the essential handbook for all longboarders who yearn to find perfect waves.
Barbarian Days
Author: William FinneganPublisher: Penguin
ISBN: 0143109391
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 466
Book Description
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Epic Surf Breaks of the World
Author: Lonely PlanetPublisher: Lonely Planet
ISBN: 9781788686501
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 0
Book Description
Lonely Planet explores the world's most righteous spots for riding waves in Epic Surf Breaks, the latest addition to its popular Epic series. From Java's G-Land to Hawaii's North Shore and on to Bells Beach in Victoria, Australia, surfers of all levels are sure to be thrilled. With stunning photography and gripping first hand accounts, there's no denying this ride will be epic.
Author: LIZ. CLARKSarah and the Big Wave
Author: Bonnie TsuiPublisher: Henry Holt and Company (BYR)
ISBN: 1250840430
Category : Juvenile Nonfiction
Languages : en
Pages : 19
Book Description
This stunning nonfiction picture book tells the inspiring story of Sarah Gerhardt, one of the first female big-wave surfers. Have you ever seen a big wave? One that’s twenty, thirty, forty, even fifty feet tall? Here’s a better question: Would you ever surf a big wave? Sarah Gerhardt did—and this is her story. Sarah and the Big Wave, a tale of perseverance and indomitable spirit, is about the first woman to ride the waves at Mavericks, one of the biggest and most dangerous surf breaks in the world.
Fear Nothing
Author: Dean KoontzPublisher: Bantam
ISBN: 0307414108
Category : Fiction
Languages : en
Pages : 448
Book Description
Fear, compassion, evil, courage, hope, wonder, the exquisite terror of not knowing what will happen on the next page to characters you care about deeply—these are the marvels that Dean Koontz weaves into the unique tapestry of every novel. His storytelling talents have earned him the devotion of fans around the world, making him one of the most popular authors of our time, with more than 200 million copies of his books sold worldwide. Christopher Snow is different from all the other residents of Moonlight Bay, different from anyone you've ever met. For Christopher Snow has made his peace with a very rare genetic disorder shared by only one thousand other Americans, a disorder that leaves him dangerously vulnerable to light. His life is filled with the fascinating rituals of one who must embrace the dark. He knows the night as no one else ever will, ever can—the mystery, the beauty, the many terrors, and the eerie, silken rhythms of the night—for it is only at night that he is free. Until the night he witnesses a series of disturbing incidents that sweep him into a violent mystery only he can solve, a mystery that will force him to rise above all fears and confront the many-layered strangeness of Moonlight Bay and its residents. Once again drawing daringly from several genres, Dean Koontz has created a narrative that is a thriller, a mystery, a wild adventure, a novel of friendship, a rousing story of triumph over severe physical limitations, and a haunting cautionary tale. This ebook edition contains a special preview of Dean Koontz’s The Silent Corner.
