Fashion, Identity, Image

Author: Paul Jobling
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1350183237
Category : Business & Economics
Languages : en
Pages : 177

Book Description
How has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there's also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing population with analysis of age and memory in work such as Magali Nougarède's Crossing the Line (2002), and pleasure and morality in fashion publicity since the 1990s for the likes of Calvin Klein, D&G and American Apparel.

Fashion, Culture, and Identity

Author: Fred Davis
Publisher: University of Chicago Press
ISBN: 022616795X
Category : Social Science
Languages : en
Pages : 239

Book Description
What do our clothes say about who we are or who we think we are? How does the way we dress communicate messages about our identity? Is the desire to be "in fashion" universal, or is it unique to Western culture? How do fashions change? These are just a few of the intriguing questions Fred Davis sets out to answer in this provocative look at what we do with our clothes—and what they can do to us. Much of what we assume to be individual preference, Davis shows, really reflects deeper social and cultural forces. Ours is an ambivalent social world, characterized by tensions over gender roles, social status, and the expression of sexuality. Predicting what people will wear becomes a risky gamble when the link between private self and public persona can be so unstable.

Fashioning Identity

Author: Maria Mackinney-Valentin
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1474249116
Category : Design
Languages : en
Pages : 299

Book Description
We dress to communicate who we are, or who we would like others to think we are, telling seductive fashion narratives through our adornment. Yet, today, fashion has been democratized through high-low collaborations, social media and real-time fashion mediation, complicating the basic dynamic of identity displays, and creating tension between personal statements and social performances. Fashioning Identity explores how this tension is performed through fashion production and consumption,by examining a diverse series of case studies - from ninety-year old fashion icons to the paradoxical rebellion in 'normcore', and from soccer jerseys in Kenya to heavy metal band T-shirts in Europe. Through these cases, the role of time, gender, age memory, novelty, copying, the body and resistance are considered within the context of the contemporary fashion scene. Offering a fresh approach to the subject by readdressing Fred Davis' seminal concept of 'identity ambivalence' in Fashion, Culture and Identity (1992), Mackinney-Valentin argues that we are in an epoch of 'status ambivalence', in which fashioning one's own identity has become increasingly complicated.

Franklin on Fashion

Author: Caryn Franklin
Publisher: Pandora Press
ISBN:
Category : Design
Languages : en
Pages : 196

Book Description
Taking a behind-the-scenes look at contemporary designers and models, this book portrays the facts about careers in modelling and fashion

Fashion and Its Social Agendas

Author: Diana Crane
Publisher: University of Chicago Press
ISBN: 0226924831
Category : Social Science
Languages : en
Pages : 353

Book Description
It has long been said that clothes make the man (or woman), but is it still true today? If so, how has the information clothes convey changed over the years? Using a wide range of historical and contemporary materials, Diana Crane demonstrates how the social significance of clothing has been transformed. Crane compares nineteenth-century societies—France and the United States—where social class was the most salient aspect of social identity signified in clothing with late twentieth-century America, where lifestyle, gender, sexual orientation, age, and ethnicity are more meaningful to individuals in constructing their wardrobes. Today, clothes worn at work signify social class, but leisure clothes convey meanings ranging from trite to political. In today's multicode societies, clothes inhibit as well as facilitate communication between highly fragmented social groups. Crane extends her comparison by showing how nineteenth-century French designers created fashions that suited lifestyles of Paris elites but that were also widely adopted outside France. By contrast, today's designers operate in a global marketplace, shaped by television, film, and popular music. No longer confined to elites, trendsetters are drawn from many social groups, and most trends have short trajectories. To assess the impact of fashion on women, Crane uses voices of college-aged and middle-aged women who took part in focus groups. These discussions yield fascinating information about women's perceptions of female identity and sexuality in the fashion industry. An absorbing work, Fashion and Its Social Agendas stands out as a critical study of gender, fashion, and consumer culture. "Why do people dress the way they do? How does clothing contribute to a person's identity as a man or woman, as a white-collar professional or blue-collar worker, as a preppie, yuppie, or nerd? How is it that dress no longer denotes social class so much as lifestyle? . . . Intelligent and informative, [this] book proposes thoughtful answers to some of these questions."-Library Journal

Fashion, Identity, and Power in Modern Asia

Author: Kyunghee Pyun
Publisher: Springer
ISBN: 3319971999
Category : Social Science
Languages : en
Pages : 414

Book Description
This edited volume on radical dress reforms in East Asia takes a fresh look at the symbols and languages of modernity in dress and body. Dress reform movements around the turn of the twentieth century in the region have received little critical attention as a multicultural discourse of labor, body, gender identity, colonialism, and government authority. With contributions by leading experts of costume/textile history of China, Korea, and Japan, this book presents up-to-date scholarship using diverse methodologies in costume history, history of consumption, and international trade. Thematically organized into sections exploring the garments and uniforms, accessories, fabrics, and fashion styles of Asia, this edited volume offers case studies for students and scholars in an ever-expanding field of material culture including, but not limited to, economic history, visual culture, art history, history of journalism, and popular culture. Fashion, Identity, and Power in Modern Asia stimulates further research on the impact of modernity and imperialism in neglected areas such as military uniform, school uniform, women’s accessories, hairstyles, and textile trade.

Fashion and Motherhood

Author: Laura Snelgrove
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1350276715
Category : History
Languages : en
Pages : 316

Book Description
Motherhood, whether achieved through biological or other means, is not a rare experience; dressing oneself, even less so. The two phenomena are intimately linked, as both occur on and to the private body, and are also fully subject to social pressures and the changing tides of public opinion. They also, for anyone who experiences motherhood, define one another and work together to shape an individual's identity and place in their culture. This rich collection explores the essential question of how motherhood and fashion interact, interrogating their relationships to power, misogyny, temporality, longing and embodiment, among other themes. The 13 essays examine representations on film, in popular print and literature; they use images, narrative and material evidence from the past to excavate the historical cleavages in how mothers have been expected to hide, display, share and sacrifice their bodies. An international range of scholars explores the 19th to the 21st centuries, tracing how fashion and motherhood have operated as powerfully interdependent experiences and continue to determine how women are judged and corralled, yet also find meaning, connection and strength.

Slaves to Fashion

Author: Monica L. Miller
Publisher: Duke University Press
ISBN: 0822391511
Category : Social Science
Languages : en
Pages : 409

Book Description
Slaves to Fashion is a pioneering cultural history of the black dandy, from his emergence in Enlightenment England to his contemporary incarnations in the cosmopolitan art worlds of London and New York. It is populated by sartorial impresarios such as Julius Soubise, a freed slave who sometimes wore diamond-buckled, red-heeled shoes as he circulated through the social scene of eighteenth-century London, and Yinka Shonibare, a prominent Afro-British artist who not only styles himself as a fop but also creates ironic commentaries on black dandyism in his work. Interpreting performances and representations of black dandyism in particular cultural settings and literary and visual texts, Monica L. Miller emphasizes the importance of sartorial style to black identity formation in the Atlantic diaspora. Dandyism was initially imposed on black men in eighteenth-century England, as the Atlantic slave trade and an emerging culture of conspicuous consumption generated a vogue in dandified black servants. “Luxury slaves” tweaked and reworked their uniforms, and were soon known for their sartorial novelty and sometimes flamboyant personalities. Tracing the history of the black dandy forward to contemporary celebrity incarnations such as Andre 3000 and Sean Combs, Miller explains how black people became arbiters of style and how they have historically used the dandy’s signature tools—clothing, gesture, and wit—to break down limiting identity markers and propose new ways of fashioning political and social possibility in the black Atlantic world. With an aplomb worthy of her iconographic subject, she considers the black dandy in relation to nineteenth-century American literature and drama, W. E. B. Du Bois’s reflections on black masculinity and cultural nationalism, the modernist aesthetics of the Harlem Renaissance, and representations of black cosmopolitanism in contemporary visual art.

Fashion on Television

Author: Helen Warner
Publisher: A&C Black
ISBN: 1472567455
Category : Performing Arts
Languages : en
Pages : 201

Book Description
Fashion on Television provides a comprehensive critical examination of the intersection between fashion, television and celebrity culture. The book brings together theoretical approaches to the symbolic force of television and fashion-forward programming on a global scale. Examining case studies such as Sex and the City, Gossip Girl, Ugly Betty and Mad Men, the book examines how TV has made style icons out of leading actresses and fashion-conscious consumers out of audiences. Using a varied methodology, including textual and contextual analysis, this study explores the cultural uses of onscreen fashion at the level of industry, text and intertext. Fashion on Television is essential reading for those seeking to understand the cultural function of costume in a television context. Written accessibly with a multi-disciplinary approach, it will appeal to students and scholars from film and media, fashion and cultural studies, to sociology and women's studies.

Dress and Identity

Author: Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Business & Economics
Languages : en
Pages : 536

Book Description
This valuable collection of readings discusses the relationship between dress and identity. Selections from many disciplines present a thorough examination of subjects, such as textiles and clothing, anthropology, sociology, social psychology and womens studies. Some writings are classic statements, others are contributions from recently published books and journals. Each of the books five parts features an introduction that puts entries into context.