The Origins of Italian Fashion: 1900-1945

Author: Sofia Gnoli
Publisher: Victoria & Albert Museum
ISBN: 9781851777914
Category : Design
Languages : en
Pages : 0

Book Description
The Origins of Italian Fashion examines the history of Italian fashion from the beginning of the twentieth century, when the Lombard tailor Rosa Genoni created the first Italian fashion house independent from the prevailing French style, to World War II, when the Fascist regime co-opted fashion as a propaganda tool. Illustrated with archive material from the designers and the earliest Italian fashion magazines, this book concentrates on the most important designers from the early years of Italian fashion. From Gabriella di Robilant, the Italian 'inventor' of sportswear fashion, to Salvatore Ferragamo and his famous orthopaedic shoes, to Elsa Schiaparelli, the first great protagonist of Italian style, these designers' influence continues to be felt today.

A New History of "Made in Italy"

Author: Lucia Savi
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1350247766
Category : Design
Languages : en
Pages : 273

Book Description
Shortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2024 In the first book to examine the role played by textile manufacturing in the development of fashion in Italy, A New History of 'Made in Italy' investigates Italy's transition from a country of dressmakers, tailors and small-scale couturiers in the early post-Second World War period to a major producer of ready-to-wear fashion in the 1980s. It takes the reader from Italy's first internationally attended fashion show in 1951 to Time magazine's Giorgio Armani April 1982 cover story, which signalled the fashion designer's international arrival, and Milan's presence as the capital of ready-to-wear. Chapters focus for the first time on the material substance of Italian fashion – textile – looking at questions including the importance of manufacturing quality, design innovation, composition, production techniques, commerce and the role of textile on the country's overall fashion system. Through these, Lucia Savi brings to light the importance of synthetic fibres, previously little-known players, such as the carnettisti (a type of textile wholesalers) as well as re-investigating well-known couturiers and designers such as Simonetta, Gianfranco Ferré and Gianni Versace. By looking at how things are made, by whom, and where, this book seeks to unpack the 'Made in Italy' label through a focus on making. Informed by extensive archival materials retrieved from a wide range of sources, it brings together the often-separated disciplines of fashion, textile and design history.

The Golden Dawn of Italian Fashion

Author: Rosanna Masiola
Publisher: Cambridge Scholars Publishing
ISBN: 1527555755
Category : Design
Languages : en
Pages : 247

Book Description
This is the first book written about Maria Monaci Gallenga (1880-1944), the enigmatic fashion artist and designer marginalized after decades of fortune and fame. The daughter of Ernesto Monaci, the illustrious philologist and mentor of Luigi Pirandello, Gallenga was the wife of Pietro Gallenga, a medical scientist related to the Gallenga Stuart family. The text outlines Maria Monaci Gallenga’s impact on the world of fashion, contextualizing her work and that of other forgotten fashion designers in the 1920s and 1930s. It sheds light on her cultural impact and idealism as a business entrepreneur in Europe and America promoting Italian art and culture. It also highlights her engagement in social and educational activities after she retired from the world of fashion, and explains the reasons behind her marginalization and disappearance, and the obstacles and constraints she faced during the years of Fascism. The book also considers the influence of the British arts and crafts movement and the vision of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood on her aesthetic vision, and, in turn, investigates Maria Gallenga’s influence on late Pre-Raphaelite paintings (Frank Cadogan Cowper) inspired by her designs and fabrics. The discovery of her fabrics and accessories by the Fendi sisters in the collections of the Tirelli House eventually sparked a new interest in her models, now enhanced by digital media.

Italian Fashion since 1945

Author: Emanuela Scarpellini
Publisher: Springer
ISBN: 3030178129
Category : History
Languages : en
Pages : 275

Book Description
In the course of the twentieth century, Italy succeeded in establishing itself as one of the world's preeminent fashion capitals, despite the centuries-old predominance of Paris and London. This book traces the story of how this came to be, guiding readers through the major cultural and economic revolutions of twentieth-century Italy and how they shaped the consumption practices and material lives of everyday Italians. In order to understand the specific character of the “Italian model,” Emanuela Scarpellini considers not only aspects of craftsmanship, industrial production and the evolution of styles, but also the economic and cultural changes that have radically transformed Italy and the international scene within a few decades: the post-war economic miracle, the youth revolution, the consumerism of the 1980s, globalization, the environmentalism of the 2000s and the Italy of today. Written in a lively style, full of references to cinema, literature, art and the world of media, this work offers the first comprehensive overview of a phenomenon that has profoundly shaped recent Italian history.

Italian Style

Author: Eugenia Paulicelli
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN: 1623568587
Category : Performing Arts
Languages : en
Pages : 429

Book Description
This is the first in-depth, book-length study on fashion and Italian cinema from the silent film to the present. Italian cinema launched Italian fashion to the world. The book is the story of this launch. The creation of an Italian style and fashion as they are perceived today, especially by foreigners, was a product of the post World War II years. Before then, Parisian fashion had dominated Europe and the world. Just as fashion was part of Parisian and French national identity, the book explores the process of shaping and inventing an Italian style and fashion that ran parallel to, and at times took the lead in, the creation of an Italian national identity. In bringing to the fore these intersections, as well as emphasizing the importance of craft in cinema, fashion and costume design, the book aims to offer new visions of films by directors such as Nino Oxilia, Mario Camerini, Alessandro Blasetti, Federico Fellini, Michelangelo Antonioni, Luchino Visconti and Paolo Sorrentino, of film stars such as Lyda Borelli, Francesca Bertini, Pina Menichelli, Lucia Bosè, Monica Vitti, Marcello Mastroianni, Toni Servillo and others, and the costume archives and designers who have been central to the development of Made in Italy and Italian style.

Italian Glamour

Author:
Publisher:
ISBN: 9788857224282
Category : Design
Languages : en
Pages : 0

Book Description
"The essence of Italian style through fashion and costume in the 20th century in a volume that captures the evolution of Italian fashion's biggest brands. The fashion archive of Enrico Quinto and Paolo Tinarelli has been painstakingly assembled over the last twenty years and traces the international evolution of costume from the mid-19th century to the present day. This quintessential volume on Italian style narrates the development of fashion through around three hundred dresses, chronologically ordered and selected from an international collection of over six thousand pieces, enriched by commentary by historians, journalists, and fashion designers, but also by photography, film, and personal testimony: a concrete resource for historians of costume, students, and those passionate about style" --

The Great Fashion Designers

Author: Brenda Polan
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1350091618
Category : Design
Languages : en
Pages : 397

Book Description
Over the last 180 years designers have propelled fashion from an elite craft into a cornerstone of popular culture. This brilliantly written guide to the lives and collections of 55 iconic fashion designers draws on the latest academic research and the best of fashion journalism, including the authors' own interviews with designers. Beginning with 19th century couturier Charles Frederick Worth and concluding with the star names of the 2010s, Polan and Tredre detail each designer's working methods and career highlights to capture the spirit of their times. This beautifully illustrated revised edition features five new designer profiles: Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Alessandro Michele and Demna Gvasalia. It's also been updated throughout to reflect a fashion world in constant ferment, with designers swapping jobs and fashion houses at unprecedented speed. The industry has expanded into a global phenomenon - and designers have emerged as true celebrities; The Great Fashion Designers explores their passion and flair to show us fashion at its most inspirational.

Mussolini's Italy

Author: R. J. B. Bosworth
Publisher: Penguin
ISBN: 110107857X
Category : History
Languages : en
Pages : 740

Book Description
With Mussolini ’s Italy, R.J.B. Bosworth—the foremost scholar on the subject writing in English—vividly brings to life the period in which Italians participated in one of the twentieth century’s most notorious political experiments. Il Duce’s Fascists were the original totalitarians, espousing a cult of violence and obedience that inspired many other dictatorships, Hitler’s first among them. But as Bosworth reveals, many Italians resisted its ideology, finding ways, ingenious and varied, to keep Fascism from taking hold as deeply as it did in Germany. A sweeping chronicle of struggle in terrible times, this is the definitive account of Italy’s darkest hour.

Italian Style

Author: Sonnet Stanfill
Publisher: Victoria & Albert Museum
ISBN: 9781851778232
Category : Design
Languages : en
Pages : 0

Book Description
"This lavish book is a glamorous, comprehensive look at Italian fashion from the end of the Second World War to the present day. The story is explored through the key individuals and organizations that have contributed to Italy's reputation for quality and style. The book showcases the exceptional range of techniques, materials and expertise for which the 'Made in Italy' brand has become renowned. Essays from experts working in Britain and Italy reveal the reputation and craftsmanship of the fashion industry, documenting Italy's dramatic transition from post-war ruins to the luxury paraded in the landmark 'Sala Bianca' catwalk shows held in Florence in the 1950s, which propelled Italian fashion onto the world stage. During the 1950s and '60s the many Hollywood films that were shot on location in Italy had an enormous impact on fashion as stars such as Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor became style ambassadors for Italian fashion, fuelling a keen international appetite for luxurious clothing made in Italy. Designers and labels featured include Simonetta, Emilio Pucci, Sorelle Fontana, Valentino, Gucci, Missoni, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Versace, through to the next generation of fashion talent."--Dust jacket.

Fashion Since 1900

Author: Amy de la Haye
Publisher: National Geographic Books
ISBN: 0500204691
Category : Design
Languages : en
Pages : 0

Book Description
An authoritative account of the history of fashion from 1900 to today, fully illustrated in color. From the turn-of-the-century S-bend silhouette to celebrity couture of the new millennium and the evolution of streetwear, this comprehensive survey explores the significant developments in fashion since 1900. Authors Amy de la Haye and Valerie Mendes focus on key movements and innovations in style for both men and women, and explore trends through the work of the most original and influential designers. Chapters are organized around crucial shifts in style and major world events, and exciting advances in fashion are placed within their socioeconomic, political, and cultural contexts. International in scope, this new edition includes updates to the text, including chapters on the most important new designers and the impact of online shopping. Fully illustrated in vibrant color throughout,Fashion Since 1900 includes a helpful reference section with an extensive bibliography.